But at the same time, when they announced grocery stores would be getting beer, I was curious and well, a bit concerned. Since grocery stores also charge stocking fees, just as the Beer Store and LCBO do, would it mean only the big guns would be able to afford to play in the grocery markets' sandbox? Because if so, the government's claim of diluting the Beer Store "monopoly" would actually just be giving the big boys a new venue to rule.
In the end, as it turned out (and I only learned two days ago), the grocery stores will be held to the same 20% Craft Beer Standards as the Beer Store. Now granted, the Province is expecting to give only 150 beer-selling licences out to grocery stores by May 2017. That's a while from now. But progress and social reform in Ontario moves at exactly two speeds: very slowly... or, well, reverse. If you're lucky enough to be on the receiving end of "very slowly", you go down on one knee, kiss their rings, say 12 Hail Mary's and then back out of the room... also very slowly as not to spook them.
But just prior to knowing that, I was talking to our Brick Brewery driver on Wednesday and asking if he thought it would be only the big names at the grocery store. "Nah," he replied, "I don't think so. I mean, obviously you have to think our PC beers will be in Loblaw's and its (many) affiliates."
Holy crap, I never even thought about that. For those outside Canada, PC, in this case, means President's Choice (and thankfully not politically correct.) And the driver was bang-on since PC brands have been the no-name choice for all food products at Loblaw's for several decades now. And there isn't a Canadian alive who couldn't tell you who the late Dave Nichol is. Though sadly he passed away in 2013, this middle-aged, could-be-your-neighbour guy in the glasses, turned out to be this country's biggest marketing genius.
After losing the rights to the PC line of beers, Nichols didn't call it a day. He simply created a brand new line of beers, baring his name. For a non-drinker, he clearly knew how to pour |
While among the higher-ups at Loblaw's back in the 1970s, he created the store's line of no-name discount foods. Except they had a name - President's Choice - and that name soon came to mean for all of us "of superior quality than the brand names." A foodie, Nichol spend a great deal of time in the corporate kitchen with top-notch chefs, inventing new foods, sauces and what-have-you that were good enough to bear the PC label. His home-spun 30-second commercials made a star of this regular guy who came off as persuasive yet genuine and we bought PC products by the score, simply on Dave's word. Most of us believe he hit his pinnacle when they created the President's Choice Decadent Chocolate Chip Cookie. This cookie was so rich and delicious that even people who shun sweets, such as myself, stocked their pantries hard with bags of them.
So what does any of this have to do with beer? Well, let's get to that. Allow me now to explain where the concept of discount beer was introduced to Ontario, courtesy of, you guessed it, Dave Nichol. Now while pulling the following historical info from quite literally a dozen different sources on the internet, it seems that many of them are, in turn, pulling liberally from Allen Winn Sneath's book, Brewed in Canada... meaning I am piggybacking on their piggybacking from his 400-page book. So full credit where it's due to Allen. Cheers, mate! I am uncertain what does and doesn't come from his book so I'll liberally give him all the credit.
Next on my To-Buy List? Allen Winn Sneath's Brewed in Canada, a look at this country's three and a half centuries of brewing in the Great White North. |
In 1991, Heineken owned the Amstel Brewery in Hamilton. Since only five or six people in Ontario drank Amstel, it became unprofitable to maintain. In 1992, Nichols approached Cott Corporation, which already make his PC pop line, and they decide to take over the brewery. It then became Lakeport Brewing, given its proximity to Lake Ontario and the waterway ports in the city. Despite being a full-time journalist, I was also working part-time at a Mississauga Beer Store at this time and I'll be honest, I have little (or no) recollection of the brewery's first efforts - Around Ontario, Laker and Laker Light (back then, I mean - now Laker is property of Brick.) But the next one, oh, I remember it well. It was the President's Choice Premium Draft. They was notable for three reasons. One, it was a buck cheaper for a 12-pack than the Labatt and Molson's products that ruled the roost, making it the first discount beer we had ever encountered. Two, I was the first person, customer and employee alike, to buy it the night it came in. And three, once the advertisements hit the air, we were sold out within the week. All Beer Stores were. Nichol, who was a non-drinker, had an unlikely hit on his hands.
But the big boys were not ones to sit on their thumbs when it came to someone else gaining both attention and market-share and within the year, Molson released the still-popular discount line of Carling beers while Labatt responded with the now-defunct Wildcat line. (Full disclosure, given how much Wildcat Lager and Wildcat Strong I used to drink, I'm stunned it's not still around.)
You have craft beer tastes but a pauper's budget? Try this one then. PC Black Lager stands up quite well and at $9.95/six cans or $36 a case, this is a very strong outing. |
A year after freezing Steam Whistle out of the Rogers Centre, craft beer has returned to Toronto Blue Jays' games with this year's addition of Hockley Valley Dark Ale... |
Lessee... have I forgotten anything in this rambling bit of Ontario beer history? Ahh, yes, one small matter. Labatt bought up Lakeport Brewery, shut it down, started brewing Lakeport at their own plants and did some sort of scorched earth thing with the building, rendering it inoperable for any brewery. Or did it? As it turns out, no, not quite enough salting of the earth was done as my local boys, Nickel Brook and Toronto brewers Collective Arts leased the property last year and are putting the finishing touches on their new 50,000-square-foot collaborative Arts & Science Brewery, opening this Summer. They will need the extra capacity as Nickel Brook owner John has big plans of expanding his line in New York State and Ohio as soon as possible and the present brewery on Drury Lane in Burlington simply can't crank out that much beer. Talk about a phoenix rising from the ashes.
So let's get back to that prediction from the Brick Brewery driver. While no single grocery chain can collect more than 25% of the beer-selling licences up for grabs by the Province, the Loblaw's chain is virtually a lock for a quarter of the action and included under the Loblaws umbrella, aside from their base stores are well-known grocers such as No Frills, Fortino's and believe it or not, Shopper's Drug Marts. So will the PC line be on the shelf next to the big boys? Count on it.
Is Topless Tuesday still a go, though? Uhhhh, I'm asking for a friend... |
And one day, I'll be grocery shopping and find some lady's abandoned shopping list in my cart. If it reads, "Beer, wine and other crap like food," well, by gawd, I will know my soulmate is out there.
I realize this has been a bit of a rambling beer history lesson but there are still dozens of questions around beer reform and one-by-one, I am still trying to discover them and pass them along. We'll be back to beer next time as we look at the recent Ontario Brewing Awards where old-timer Trafalgar Brewery stunned the crowd by winning "Newcomer of the Year." I mean, this brewery has been around so long, I think Moses did the ribbon-cutting. But I got the low-down on how that happened and will be looking at dozens of other winners at the same time. But guys and dolls, that's it, that all and I am outta here!!! Until next time, I remain...